Yorkie Care Guide

 

The following information is very extensive, but equally important.  Please take the time to read, or better yet, print and highlight needed information.  Please contact us with further questions.  We certainly welcome you to print for personal use; however, please do not redistribute without permission.

 

Vaccination Schedule:

Puppy Vaccinations / healthy checks (completed prior to adoption): Physical Exam, tail / dew claw dock, vaccination x 4 (week 10, week 14, week 18, week 22) or (week 6, week 8, week 12, week 15)  MLV only, Intestinal parasite preventative as needed ** We do not give Rabies Vaccination until 1st year, check your county / city's requirements. ***NO LEPTO Vaccination*****

Within 24 hours of purchase  Physical Exam, vaccination if needed, intestinal parisite culture & treatment IVERHART MAX Heartworm / intestinal worm preventative

Annual Exam / Booster Exam, Rabies (every 3rd year if no ordanances exists in your area), Bordatella / Leptospirosis vaccination if dog is communally housed, Heartworm Test, Titer test (checks for vaccination antibodies) Vaccinate if needed IVERHART MAX 12 month supply     **Rabies Vaccination Law Change in the Texas** Scientific data shows that vaccinations for Rabies, distemper, and parvovirus are good for at least 7 years. More importantly data clearly shows that repeat administration of these vaccinations beyond the puppy or kitten series and first annual vaccinations have no benefit. The immunity of the pet is not enhanced, but your pet is subjected unnecessarily to the risk of an adverse vaccine reaction. Texas State Regulation currently requires dogs and cats to be vaccinated every year with a vaccine that is licensed by the USDA for 3 years duration of immunity.

Links to important Health Concerns:

 

Hypoglycemia  http://yorkieviews.com/hypoglycemia.htm

Liver Shunt    http://www.vetsurgerycentral.com/pss.htm

Luxating Patella  http://www.vetsurgerycentral.com/patella.htm

Collapsed Trachea  http://www.vetsurgerycentral.com/tracheal_collapse.htm

Legg-Calve Perthes Disease   http://www.vetsurgerycentral.com/legg_calve.htm

 

 

The Supplies You Need

Before you bring your puppy home, be sure you have the following supplies:

1. Small bag of Diamond Naturals Puppy Food or one of the recommended foods below to get your new puppy off to a good start. (We will provide you with the exact mix of your puppy’s diet as sometimes we make our own “formula” using two different protein levels)  Don’t worry, we will explain it all….
2. Tube of Nutra Cal for Puppies (pet’s mart) to be administered in doses of 2cc each day after breakfast for at least 3 months.  This is a high calorie supplement to head off hypoglycemia and give your puppy lots of energy as it grows.
3. Small stainless steel, non-tip food and water bowls.
4. Identification tags with your Yorkie’s name and your phone number. You will need both a collar and a leather or nylon 6-foot leash that's 1/2 - 3/4 inches wide (consider using a "breakaway" collar with plastic clips that will unsnap in case your puppy gets hung up on something).  Your puppy will come micro-chipped, and his / her tag will need to be attached to the collar.
5. A home and travel crate that's airline approved and will accommodate your Yorkie’s adult size. (You only need one crate)  This crate will serve as your Yorkie’s new "den" at home, when traveling or riding to the veterinarian's office. His scent in the crate will provide comfort and a sense of security during these stressful times.  If your puppy is being shipped, he / she will arrive in a hard crate.  It will be the crate the puppy has been started in (kennel training) so do bear in mind it will have some “wear.”   This is only provided if the puppy is being shipped, but we are always happy to pick up a crate for you. Don’t hesitate to ask.
6. Stain remover for accidental soiling.  I recommend Nature’s Miracle (pet’s mart)
7. 1 stiff bristle Brush and 1 fine tooth comb.  Daily combing is important to keep coat in shape and only takes a few minutes.
8. Dog shampoo (tearless), toothbrush and paste.
9. High-quality, safe chew toys to ease teething.
10. Flea, tick and parasite controls. We recommend Advantix-Multi available from us in 6 month packs.
11. Nail clippers.
12. Treats

 

Helpful Hints

• Use stainless steel, non-tip food bowls, which won't break or absorb odors.
• Toys with parts that squeak or whistle can be dangerous if swallowed.
• For a comfortable collar fit, allow for two-fingers of space between the collar and your dog's neck; consider using an adjustable collar.

Making a Home Safe

To make your home safe for your new puppy, eliminate potential hazards around the house and pay attention to the following items:

** Make sure ALL electrical cords are out of reach**

• Keep breakable objects out of reach.
• Deny access to electrical cords by hiding or covering them; make outlets safe with plastic outlet plugs.
• Safely store household chemicals.
• Keep the following house and garden plants out of reach: poinsettias, azaleas, rhododendrons, dumb cane, Japanese yew, oleander and English ivy among others.
• In the garage, be sure engine lubricants and other poisonous chemicals (especially antifreeze) are safely stored.
• If you own a pool or hot tub, check the cover or the surrounding fence to be sure they're in good condition.
• If you provide your puppy with an outdoor kennel, place it in an area that provides sun and shelter in the pen; be sure the kennel is large enough to comfortably accommodate your Yorkie’s adult size.
• There are several foods off limits to Yorkies.  We advise you keep the kitchen off limits as well as the bathroom.  Remember, if you drop an aspirin, your puppy will eat it…. Medicines can be deadly.

The First Days at Home

The ideal time to bring home a new puppy is when the house is quiet. Discourage friends from stopping by and don't allow overnight guests. First establish a daily routine and follow these steps:

Step 1: Before bringing him in the house, take him to the area in your yard that will serve as his "bathroom" and spend a few minutes there. If he goes, praise him. If not, proceed into the house but be sure to take him to this spot each time he needs to use the bathroom.

Step 2: Take him to the room that accommodates his crate—this restricted area will serve as his new "den" for several days. Put bedding and chew toys in the crate, leave the door open and line the area outside of the crate with newspaper, in case of an accident. Let him investigate the crate and the room. If he chews or urinates on his bedding, permanently remove it from the crate.

Step 3: Observe and interact with your puppy while he's acclimating to his new den. This will help forge a sense of pack and establish you as the pack leader.

Special Puppy Concerns

Don't treat a puppy as young as 6 to 12-weeks old like an adult dog. Treat him the same way you would your own infant: with patience, constant supervision and a gentle touch. The way you interact with your puppy at this age is critical to his socialization. Use these tips:

• Don't bring home a puppy prior to vacation, we will always hold onto your puppy if your vacation is near. He needs to be acclimated to your normal, daily routine without any interruptions for at least a few weeks if not more.
• Supervise your puppy at all times and interact with him regularly.
• Be alert for signs (sniffing and circling) that he has to go to the bathroom,  take him outside immediately.
• A young puppy has no bladder control and will need to urinate immediately after eating, drinking, sleeping or playing. At night, he will need to relieve himself at least every three hours.
• Don't punish an accident. Never push his nose in the waste or scold him. He won't understand, and may learn to go to the bathroom when you're out of sight.
• Praise your puppy every time he goes to the bathroom outside.
• Feed your puppy a formula designed for puppies. Like a baby, he needs nutritious, highly digestible food.

Meeting Resident Pets

Keep resident pets separated from your new puppy for a few days. After your new puppy is used to his new den area, put an expandable pet gate in the doorway or put your puppy in his crate. Give your resident pet access to the area. Let pets smell and touch each other through the crate or pet gate. Do this several times over the next few days. After that, give the resident pet access to the den area with your new puppy out of his crate. Supervise their meeting and go back to through-the-gate/crate meetings if trouble arises.

 

 

Yard Safety

Is your backyard a safe haven or a health hazard? Lawn chemicals, fences and mowers all spell danger for dogs.

Your backyard, with its colorful burst of flowers, chirping birds and sunny disposition, may seem like a perfect springtime retreat. But it can be a big, bad world to your pet. Everything from lawn chemicals to the fence around your private sanctuary can be dangerous to your dog.

So what's a pet owner to do? Obviously, keeping your dog cooped up inside isn't the answer. But taking a few precautions will let you both enjoy the great outdoors safely.

"Owning a dog is like having a 3-year-old," says Dr. Patricia Talcott, a veterinary toxicologist at the University of Washington College of Veterinarian Medicine. "You don't throw out Tylenol® because of children. You store it safely. It's the same with a dog in your yard."

Danger Ahead

Whether your yard is the envy or the laughingstock of the neighborhood, it has hidden dangers. For example:

• Chemicals. If used properly, most chemicals pose little risk. An exception is 2,4-D. The diethylamine salt in this weed killer can cause serious health problems in dogs. (Agent Orange used in Vietnam contained 50 percent 2, 4-D.) Rodent and insect repellents also are problematic, usually because people forget they've applied them.
• Plants. The list of plants toxic to dogs includes yew, rhododendron and tulip and daffodil bulbs. Check with a nursery if you're wondering about your plants. If you do indeed have the plants above, remove them or prevent access to them.
• Equipment. Moving objects are enticing to dogs, which is why lawn mowers, weed trimmers, chain saws and similar equipment are off limits. Keep dogs away from hot barbecue grills, too. (They love those meaty smells!)
• Fences. Although they provide a barrier to the outside world, collars can get hooked in sharp-edged chain-link fences, and wooden fences can give splinters. A break-away collar would be the answer here. Unless fences are tall, some dogs can jump over them.

Play It Safe

Creating a safe haven isn't as hard as you might think. View your yard through your dog's eyes. Is he a digger? Add pavers at the base of your fence. Does he like to chew? A chew toy will keep him from plants.

Like Talcott, Michael Kaufmann, Director of Educational Programs for the American Humane Association in

Washington, D.C.

, says to act like a parent. "You wouldn't just lock your toddler in the yard and run to the store," he says. "The best way to avoid trouble is to not leave your dog unsupervised in the yard."

 

Feeding Your Puppy

 

Proper nutrition for your Yorkshire Terrier is the key to helping him live a long, healthy life.

 

Selecting a Puppy Food: Less equals More

 

 

The energy requirements of a puppy can be nearly twice that of an adult dog, and a puppy may not have the stomach capacity to eat enough food to meet his needs unless the food is specifically formulated to do so.  It is imperative that your puppy is fed a proper diet consisting of an excellent quality puppy food.  The idea is to give your puppy or adult yorkies the most nutrition possible in the smallest amount.  By products and fillers provide no nutritional substance.  Please choose one of the foods we recommend.  If you have any questions, don’t hesitate to contact us, as there are more bands out there that we like and would be happy to discuss with you.   We use Diamond Naturals Puppy Food and will provide you with enough food for several days at the pick up of your puppy. Once your puppy is one year old, we suggest you move to Diamond Taste of the Wild High Prairie Formula.   However, due to the region in which you live, this food may not be available.  Thus, please review the follow these guidelines if you a new choosing a food:  Provide a highly digestible, nutrient- dense, 100% complete and balanced premium formula for growth. High-quality formulas contain such vitamins, minerals, protein, fat and carbohydrates your dog needs for sound and healthy development. Here are a few of the foods we recommend.  DO NOT USE A FOOD CONTAINING CORN as one of the 1^st 5 ingredients…  Yorkies do not digest corn well… We do realize that several of these brands had issues during the “pet food recall.”  The best defense is to be ready in the event of a problem.  I’ve come to expect that human foods, animal foods, medicines, ect all have the potential for contamination.  If you notice any problem, consult a vet immediately.  A guide to changing food is in the next section.    

 

• Science Diet
• Canidae
• AvoDerm
• Solid Gold
• Royal Canine

Puppies experience their most rapid period of growth during the first six months of life.  Use only a puppy formula for the 1^st year.  Overfeeding and weight gain can actually contribute to developmental bone problems. This makes managing food intake very important. Research has shown that puppies are at increased risk for developmental bone problems if they are overfed.

Controlling the rate of growth to promote normal development is another reason to feed quality dog food.

 

Yorkie puppy nutrition

Small-breed puppies have unique needs due to their small mouths, small stomachs and their growth spurt to adult size in a short period of time. That's why it's important to pack a lot of nutrition and energy into a small amount of food. A poor-quality diet will fill a Yorkie’s stomach before enough food can be eaten to satisfy his nutritional needs. The result can be improper muscle and skeletal development and growth impairment. Our puppy foods are formulated to be energy- and nutrient-dense to meet the needs of growing puppies.

 

Dry vs. Canned

Once you've decided on a premium formula, you have another choice to make: dry or canned.

• Premium dry dog food gives you the best value and convenience while providing your dog with high-quality nutrition. Premium dry foods come in a number of bag sizes and formulas suited to size, life stage and activity level. Dry food also helps keep teeth clean and remains fresh for long periods if stored properly.  Yorkies are prone to tooth decay… Again, dry food helps keep teeth clean!!
• I never recommend canned food unless a dog or puppy is ill, in recovery from illness or whelping, in need of weight gain or has far gone dental issues.

Value of Premium Food

Low-cost food may be less expensive, but it isn't always a bargain and may not provide optimum nutrition.  My rule of thumb is if you can purchase it at Walmart or any type of discount store (this includes target) it is not for Yorkies.  Premium food makes sense both nutritionally (because of consistent, high-quality ingredients) and economically because it provides:

• 100% complete, balanced nutrition
• High nutrient and energy density, which translates into smaller feeding portions
• A stable ingredient profile.
• In the grand scheme, you will only be feeding about 60 grams per day as opposed to twice that with discount brands… You will end up having to feed much more of a bargain type and this increases the odds your dog will be over weight and generally unhealthy.

High nutrient and energy density

The investment in a premium food may initially cost more per bag, but because these high-quality formulas are high in nutrient density, your dog may need less food, which can offset the higher cost per unit of weight. On a cost-per-feeding basis, look at how much you feed each day as opposed to how much the bag costs, because nutrient and energy density will generally be lower for a low-cost food compared with premium foods.

• Foods from all of the recommended companies are fixed-formula foods as opposed to least-cost formulas. Fixed formulas have a "stable ingredient profile." That means the recipes formulated to be 100% complete and balanced do not change with the cost of ingredients.
• With least-cost formulations, the emphasis is on production and ingredient costs. Two bags of the same least-cost formulated food can have different ingredients and/or levels of ingredients. Plus, those ingredients may vary significantly in digestibility—this means simply that you may need to feed more just to equal the nutrition offered by a smaller amount of a premium dog food formula.

Nutrition, Skin, Coat

Feeding studies have shown that a dog's nutritional requirements are best met by high-quality animal proteins such as those contained in chicken, fish, lamb and eggs. Our formulas are made with these highly digestible proteins, which promote excellent skin and coat condition and enhance your dog's overall health and well-being. When your dog's coat looks good, the rest of the body is likely to be well nourished, too.  Remember, the wild canine did not eat corn, wheat, etc…. these dogs are carnivores and must have animal proteins.

The role of fatty acids

Fat also plays a key role in keeping your dog's skin and coat in top condition. Fat not only provides energy, it's a source of essential fatty acids that are necessary for the skin's healthy structure. Fatty acids in the diet keep the skin moist and supple. Fatty acids also contribute to a thick, lustrous and healthy coat.

Important types of fatty acids

Lack of fat and fatty acids, or the wrong balance of fatty acids, can result in dry, scaly skin and coat problems. A proper balance of fatty acids is key to a healthy coat. Although there are many kinds of fatty acids, a few are important to coat health and appearance:

• Linoleic acid is an essential omega-6 fatty acid for dogs and is necessary for healthy skin. It is found in beef, pork, chicken and some vegetable oils.
• Omega-6 fatty acids, including linoleic acid, can be found in the fat or oils provided in ingredients such as chicken and corn in your dog's food.
• Omega-3 fatty acids are found in cold-water fish oils and in flax. Although not essential to a dog's diet, they have been found to help nutritionally manage skin and coat conditions and promote a shiny coat.

A proper fatty-acid balance

An appropriate balance of omega-6 and omega-3 fatty acids helps maintain your dog's healthy skin and coat. An optimal range of omega-6 to omega-3 fatty-acid ratios is between 5:1 and 10:1, to enhance skin and coat quality and help nutritionally manage skin and coat conditions.

 

Feeding Instructions

Your new dog's first meals at home are very important. We are providing a few days of food for him / her.  Please continue feeding this food until you run out.  If you want to change his diet to another premium food, gradually move him from the old food to the new formula.  Avoid intestinal upsets by using the following steps:

 

**Changing food can be very upsetting to your Yorkie’s digestive system.  Watch for lack of interest in the new food, weight loss, and diarrhea or constipation.  If these occur, consult your vet immediately.

 

Day 1 - 3:  Fill your dog's bowl with 75% of his old food and 25% of the new formula..

                  Give your puppy 2cc of Nutra Cal

Day 4 - 6:   Mix the old food and the new premium formula in a 50/50 ratio.

Day 7 – 10: Feed your dog a mixture that's 75% new premium formula and 25% old formula.

Day 11: Feed 100% of the new premium formula.

 

Leave Fresh Clean water available ALL DAY

 

** Continually switch food will make your puppy a finicky eater as will hand feeding… Just remember if you spoil them to such things, you will have 10 to 15 years of hand feeding…. Good routines = happy yorkies and happy owners.

 

 

Feeding Tips

Use the following guidelines to feed your new puppy properly:

• To determine each serving size, start with the daily amount recommended by the feeding guidelines on the pet food label and divide that number by the number of times a day (usually 3 times) you plan to feed your puppy.
• Serve the food at room temperature and remove the bowl within 30 minutes after he's done eating unless you are unable to feed 3 x per day.  Prior to leaving, put a half serving of food in his food bowl to sustain him while you are gone throughout the day.
• After four months, you can feed a puppy twice daily on a regular schedule.
• Always provide your dog with clean, fresh water.
• Do Not feed table food / People food…. I only recommend a few types of treats…. Cheerios Cereal being our favorite or peanut butter teddy bears from Petco’s treat bar.

Feeding Tips for a Teething Puppy

Puppies grow quickly and have special nutritional needs. The most noticeable period is known as the rapid growth stage, which occurs between two and six months of age. From about three to six months, most pups will lose their puppy teeth (don't be alarmed if you occasionally find a tooth near his dish or on the floor).

During this phase, your puppy’s mouth and gums may be very sensitive, which could cause him to be a bit picky when it comes to eating. There's nothing you can do except to wait out this period, even if his appetite is affected for a couple of days.

 

Helpful hints

Don't switch to a new formula to stimulate your Yorkie’s appetite. Changing food at this time can cause additional stress and intestinal upset. To help your puppy make the change, consider the following options:

• Feeding a dry food and biscuits help loosen the teeth so pups can get through the teething process quicker.  If his appetite loss persists, see your veterinarian.

Puppy Nutrition for Yorkies under 5 lbs

The most rapid growth occurs in these first months of your Yorkie’s life. The immune system is developing. Bones are growing. Muscles are getting stronger. This rate of growth requires just the right mix of nutrients. To make sure your puppy is getting optimal nutrition to protect and maintain health and well-being, here are some key points to keep in mind.  Yorkies whose approx. adult weight will be 3 lbs or under must be monitored consistently and are never recommended to buyers who will be absent from the home in increments of more than 3 or so hours at a time on a regular basis.  These puppies go downhill fast if a problem is persistent and time is always of the essence.  They must be fed more often, require a very high quality food, and at least 3 regular check ups a year. 

Feeding Your small Yorkie

From the time your Yorkie is weaned until 4 months of age, you should feed your puppy 4 – 5  small meals a day based on the guidelines of the food label. We certainly understand this may not be possible for everyone’s situation.  Please set a schedule and leave food out if necessary.  Puppies cannot go all day without eating.  After 4 months of age, your puppy should be fed three times per day on a regular schedule. Always have fresh water available.

More Energy, More Protein

Research shows that puppies need twice as much energy as adult dogs. Dramatic growth at this stage means your puppy requires an energy-rich, nutrient-dense, complete and balanced diet. Puppies also require more protein than adult dogs. High-quality, animal-based protein will help your puppy create new body tissue.

One Size Does Not Fit All

Not all puppies have the same nutritional needs. Smaller puppies have higher metabolism rates per pound and reach their mature adult weight faster than larger puppies. And small puppies need higher levels of protein, fat, calcium and phosphorus to support growth and development of bones, muscles and other tissues. So giving your puppy a food specially formulated for his size is the easiest way to make sure he’s getting the right balance of nutrients for his growth rate.

Small yorkies have another special feature: small mouths and stomachs. Make sure your Yorkie’s food has small kibble for easy chewing. A nutrient-dense formula will help make sure he’s getting a complete and balanced diet even though his stomach can only accommodate what seems like a small volume of food.

Choosing Foods (important for small and large yorkies alike)

Aside from energy and protein, there are other important nutrients and ingredients vital to your Yorkie’s diet:

• vitamin-rich fish oils to support overall health
• essential vitamins and minerals to help support the immune system and help your puppy stay healthy during this critical stage of growth
• animal-based protein sources to help nourish growing muscles, vital organs and skin and coat
• a fiber source that will help keep your Yorkie’s sensitive digestive system healthy, so more nutrition stays in your puppy
• ideal levels of calcium and phosphorus to help your puppy develop strong teeth and bones

These are important building blocks of nutrition. Look for them when you choose dry or canned dog food and when you select treats.

The Switch to Adult Food for small and large yorkies

A Yorkie reaches adult weight between 6 and 12 months. You can probably begin feeding adult dog food at 10 months although I make recommendations individually as the puppy matures.  Please do not hesitate to contact us.  Remember, we are a life line for you and your puppy throughout his / her lifetime.  Never be afraid to call no matter the time or day.  Your dog may not welcome the change at first, but don’t worry.  Follow the exact same directions for changing the food discussed above.

 

Grooming Basics

No matter what your mother said, it's not just what's on the inside that counts--not, at least, when it comes to Yorkie care. Your dog's health and happiness also are dependent upon a well-care-for exterior--coat, ears, mouth and nails.  It is imperative to start early with regular grooming, dental care, and nail clipping… trust me… even as a trainer, I have a 5 month old Yorkie that is just a toot when it comes to any of these things…..  It is a chore for me, but must be tackled if he is ever to make it to the ring…

Show dogs and those with special grooming problems (severely matted hair, hard-to-groom ears and infected gums, to name a few) need the attention and skills of a veterinarian or professional groomer. But you easily can give your Yorkie routine every-day care at home.  And remember, we are just a phone call away, so never be afraid to call with a question or quick lesson….  Also, don’t be afraid of the clippers, with some practice, you’ll be a pro in no time.  It is always easier for me to explain grooming in person if possible, so give me a call for a session on grooming… We can also do this over the phone….

Regular brushing helps eliminate tangles and mats and helps your dog get accustomed to being handled. It also gives you the opportunity to check for ticks and fleas, lesions, lumps and changes in his skin and coat.  Plus, if your puppy is never used to grooming, he’ll really give you or your groomer lots of problems. Pet-supply stores and catalogs sell a wide array of brushes for different coats and conditions.  We are always glad to help with selection, etc…. Here are a few explanations of the different brushes out there….

Slicker brushes have a bed of fine, closely spaced wires that usually are hooked or bent; they're good all-purpose brushes for removing mats, loose hair and debris.

Pin brushes have a bed of widely spaced tines that look like straight pins. The tines sometimes are tipped with plastic. Pin brushes are also good for removing tangles but can be uncomfortable for grooming shorthaired dogs.

Bristle brushes and metal combs are used in the final grooming step for longhaired dogs, leaving their hair sleek, smooth and shiny. A bristle brush may be the only brush you'll need for a shorthaired dog.

Begin the brushing process with a slicker or pin brush to remove dead hair, debris and tangles. For breeds with long and very thick coats, you should groom with both brushes, using the slicker brush first.

For tough tangles, gently comb or brush small sections at a time, giving yourself and your dog a break every few minutes. Be careful not to tug at or tear the hair.

After the coat is smooth, give your dog a final brushing with a bristle brush (for shorthaired dogs) or a comb (for longhaired dogs). Give plenty of praise during the brushing process and reward your dog with a treat when you're finished.

 

Bath time

is much easier after a thorough brushing. Place your dog in a tub or a basin with a nonskid surface. Hold your dog's collar firmly and slowly pour several pitchers of lukewarm water over his body, being careful to leave the head dry.   Think of it like sink bathing your kiddos.  They need a gentle hand and a constant eye.  You CANNOT leave a dog unattended in the bath or on the grooming table.

Soap your dog's body with a TEARLESS dog shampoo, then massage the soap into a lather, talking to your dog and praising him as you work. When his body is lathered, move to his head, being careful to keep shampoo out of his eyes, ears and mouth.

Rinse and dry your dog's head, then rinse his body. When the water runs clear, Please rinse one more time just to be sure.

Thoroughly dry your dog with towels. If your dog has healthy skin, you can dry him further with a hair dryer set on low or warm temperature.  Ears must be dry inside as well, Yeast infections are a nasty business for Yorkies and tend to develop when the inside of the ears are not fully dried.

Small Yorkies need a bath at least every two or three weeks, except in the winter when twice a month probably will do. Larger Yorkies need bathing a bit more often. Of course, always wash when he is dirty or smells, regardless of when it was last bathed.  My dogs always look for the biggest pile of yuck to roll around in, yours will do the same… always bathe after this type of thing as those yuck spots can be harboring deadly bacteria.

Proper foot care will keep your doggie dancing and help prevent unnecessary pain and infection later on. Most dogs don't like to have their feet handled, so go slowly--one paw at a time--and make foot handling a part of playtime.

Remove mats of hair from between the toes and pads of dogs with hairy feet; if ignored, the mats can become as hard as rocks. Then, using scissors, trim the hair between the pads and between the toes so it is level with the dog's foot.

Regular exercise on a hard surface may keep a dog's nails worn down. However, most Yorkies will need to have their nails clipped every few weeks. If the nails are allowed to grow, they may curl inward into the skin and cause a painful infection.

Use nail clippers designed specifically for dogs. One type, known as the guillotine style, has a round opening for the dog's nail and a blade that slides across to clip the nail. Another type works like a pair of scissors. This type puts less pressure on the nail and is more comfortable for the dog. Make sure the blades are sharp.

Trim only the "hook" end of the nail. Clipping a nail to short can be painful and may cause bleeding. Frequent trimming of a small amount of nail always is better than waiting until the nail is long. Never trim into the quick -- the live portion of the nail. If the nail bleeds, apply pressure with a napkin and apply a dot of bleed stop.

Ear care generally is the easiest grooming task. Unless your dog has ear problems, ear cleaning needs to be done only every few weeks--at bath time is best.

Clean the outermost area of your Yorkie’s ears with a cotton ball or cotton swab dampened with water or baby oil. To clean further inside the ears and soften and remove wax, use an ear-cleaning solution.

Warm the bottle of solution between your palms, then squirt the prescribed amount into your dog's ear canal. Gently massage the base of his ear. Remove any dirt or wax with a dry cotton ball.  Again, be mindful to dry the ear well…

Yorkies: Socialization/Adjustment

Like children, puppies need a variety of positive experiences in order to become confident, well adjusted adults. As part of their upbringing, puppies should learn to get along with other dogs, children, and other people, and to accept the many strange sights, sounds, and experiences that are part of everyday life.)

Stages of Development:

We use a biosensory program to jump start the training process and improve trainability and development.  Puppies pass through several developmental phases. Initial "dog socialization" begins in the litter. At seven to eight weeks, puppies start to become more independent and ready to explore their environment.  Around eight to ten weeks, your puppy will probably enter a fear period. During this period, you will notice that your puppy sticks close to me when you visit and is easily frightened.  Understand this stage does not indicate your dogs overall personality.  We take the entire 15 week developmental stage to observe behavior.  One visit will not provide an overall indication of personality.  Please allow us to help with your selection if personality is important.  That said, we are not pushy about this and will only advise if asked.  Once the fear period passes, at around ten weeks of age, your puppy will enter the juvenile phase. He will be more inquisitive and more wide ranging in his explorations. We really introduce the puppies to new experiences during this time!   Please let us know early if your puppy will be often exposed to travel, children, other pets, ect as we use this information to specifically prepare YOUR puppy to your situation.  The juvenile period will last until your puppy becomes a young adult. Watch your puppy carefully, though; some pups go through a second fear period around their fourth or fifth month.

When socializing your puppy, you must keep his health needs in mind. Until your dog's vaccinations are complete, he is at risk of catching Parvo, a widespread and deadly disease.  All puppies leave with at least two rounds of vacs unless the puppy is being shipped.  We use a vac schedule of 16 weeks for puppies being shipped and a vac schedule of 22 weeks if the puppy is sold locally.  You should be extremely careful not to put your puppy down in public places until his shots are complete. Consult your veterinarian for advice about what else may pose a health risk for your puppy.

Getting Along With Other Dogs:

Yorkies have a language of their own. Using body posture, facial expressions, and vocalization, they communicate fear, anger, aggression, submission, playfulness, and more. A puppy who grows up among other dogs will learn canine language and be able to communicate effectively. A puppy raised in isolation may misinterpret cues from other dogs, or inadvertently send signals that may anger another animal.  Please be aware, a 2lb Yorkie will aggressively posture with dogs many times its size.  It takes one bite and the “other” dog is not at fault.  You are responsible for the signals your puppy sends.  Understand, dogs communicate by posturing so it is best to keep your dog on a leash when unfamiliar dogs are present.  Also, I have had Yorkie females who will fight to the death when in season.  Please be aware females will fight and you cannot be afraid to get in there and pull them apart. 

Also, like children, puppies need to learn appropriate social behavior. When puppies play, an overly enthusiastic nip will result in a yelp from another puppy. Persistent jumping on "mom" may result in a growl or snap of rebuke. In these ways, puppies learn the limits of play behavior.  You will have to take on the roll of “mom” in teaching your puppy proper conduct.

A good way to give your puppy these important learning experiences is through "puppy socialization classes." Look under Dog Trainers in your phone book, or ask your local dog club or veterinarian for recommendations.  We also supply further dog socialization for our buyers.  Although, our puppies generally receive 15 weeks of socialization, so most of that process is complete upon pick up of your puppy. You may also be able to get together with other new dog owners to form a puppy play group.

During socialization, puppies should be allowed free play time. Puppies should be supervised to make sure puppy play doesn't become overly aggressive, especially if there's a big size difference among the dogs.

Puppy socialization with other dogs begins in the litter, and should continue (if possible) throughout the puppy and juvenile growth stages. A well socialized puppy will probably mature into a dog that can be trusted to meet and play with other dogs. If you find your puppy becoming overly aggressive or overly afraid during play sessions, you should seek help from a professional dog trainer to make sure the behavior is corrected before it becomes a problem.

Getting Along With Other Pets:

For many dogs, interaction with other types of pets can be much more of a problem than dealing with other dogs. This is especially true with small animals that run away (behavior which can trigger "prey instincts" in the dog). It's best to not take a chance on allowing dogs of any breed to play with small animals such as hamsters or rabbits. All of our puppies are raised with kittens as we have a farm and seem to perpetually have a litter of kittens….In fact, I think I have supplied all of the farmers in our area with cats for their barns…. Anyway, we do try to expose the puppies on a regular basis to the kittens since this seems to help with the peditorial instinct Yorkies have.  Remember, Yorkies were bred as “Mousers,” so they will find mice and moles or anything else that scurries about and catch them….

Cats and larger pets are usually less at risk. If you have these pets in your home, your Yorkie should be introduced to them at an early age. Supervise the animals when they are together, and use praise or treats to reward your puppy for good behavior. (Don't forget to make the experience pleasant for the other pet as well.)

DUCK / water fowl FECAL MATTER is highly TOXIC to yorkies……

Getting Along With People:

Since dogs must live in a human world, it's important for them to deal well with people. Early, positive exposure to lots of strangers, with praise or rewards for good behavior, will help your puppy grow up to become a well-behaved dog.

Invite friends to your home to meet and play with your puppy. Ask adults to crouch down and avoid sudden movements when meeting your puppy... from the pup's point of view, a human is HUGE. If you don't have young children of your own, invite friends' or neighbors' children.  We also routinely expose our yorkies to both younger and older children. (Be sure to instruct children in how to handle the puppy, and always supervise play!) Puppies that are not raised around children can develop aggressive behavior toward children when they grow older. Small children, who tend to run around and make high-pitched squealing noises, frighten yorkies or prompt yorkies to growl and nip at them.

As soon as your Yorkie’s shots are complete, begin taking him to public places such as parks, where he can meet lots of friendly people. Also, make a point of introducing your dog to people of different ages and races, people in uniforms, and so on; dogs may become very wary when confronted with people who seem "unusual" in any way.

It's important to remember that you are teaching your puppy to be comfortable with people, and to behave himself around them. Behavior that seems cute in a puppy, such as nipping and jumping, is no longer cute when the dog is an adult! Whatever you don't want your dog to do as an adult, he should not be allowed to do as a puppy. Teach the puppy the behavior you want, and discourage the behavior you don't want. Gently but firmly correct unwanted behavior right from the start, and you'll have a well-behaved adult dog.

Your well-socialized dog can still be a good watchdog. Your dog is smart enough to distinguish between people who you welcome into your home, and people who should not be there.  Your Yorkie will also be keen to noises before you hear them generally altering you if properly taught.  I have two girls that will alter with a nudge and never make a sound.  Barking is not the only way dogs communicate.

Dealing With New Experiences:

Everyday experiences can be very frightening for your Yorkie. A pan dropped in the kitchen, a vacuum cleaner, or a ride in the car can become traumatic events that the dog will try to avoid forever after.

To prevent this, introduce your dog to as many new experiences as you can think of. Use rewards and encouragement to make the experiences positive, so your dog doesn't develop fears. (Remember to keep new experiences very non-threatening, and avoid startling the puppy)

For example, to accustom your puppy to a vacuum cleaner, first allow him to explore and sniff it without turning it on. Praise him or reward him as he explores. Then, when your puppy is a comfortable distance away, you may start up your vacuum cleaner, stand near it, and call your puppy. If he approaches, encourage him and praise him, or give him a reward. Gradually encourage the puppy to come closer to the vacuum. Repeat this experience several times, with lots of praise and rewards, and your puppy will soon have no fear of the vacuum.  Never allow your children to tease your puppy with vacuums, brooms, etc.

To get your puppy used to riding in a car, first get in the car with him and play with him, or give him a reward. On the next "outing," drive a few yards while someone holds your puppy and praises him. Work up to drives of a few minutes; keep them short so your puppy won't get sick. Afterwards, play with your puppy so he associates the car ride with a pleasant experience.  Let me digress here for just one moment on this subject…. Most deaths in small dogs who are allowed to ride in cars are cause by either being slammed in a door or being accidentally run over.  If you are going to allow your Yorkie to ride, as we do, always always always secure your dog prior to cranking the car or shutting doors.  Also, crate your dog prior to leaving if she is not taking the trip to insure he doesn’t scurry out without being seen.  Hurting your pet with negligence is incredibly devastating, so do be careful.  If you have children, please make sure they are aware of the dangers that lurk in the driveway (for them a well, btw).

Other experiences to work on with your Yorkie include getting into his crate or kennel, walking on a leash, walking on different surfaces (such as tile, carpet, gravel, sand, grass, and snow), climbing steps, and hearing the doorbell and telephone ring.

You can use the same approach to accustom your puppy to experiences that might otherwise be ordeals for both of you! Try the reward approach when brushing your puppy, giving him a bath, and clipping his nails. You should also teach your puppy to let you handle his paws, his ears, his tail, and even open his mouth without a struggle. (Remember, start with very short sessions and use praise, play, or rewards to keep the experience fun.) This basic groundwork with your puppy will make life much easier when your vet needs to examine him!

Keep new experiences upbeat and positive, and your dog will soon be a confident and happy companion.

Please Contact us for Recommended

Readings and further information on training….

Tips for Housetraining Puppies

Housetraining

As with most things in life, there are hard ways and there are easy ways to get things done. Rubbing a Yorkie’s nose in a mess is an inappropriate way to housetrain.  This method DOES NOT teach anything.  The dog has no idea what you are doing.  Trust me, I grew up in the business and have seen things done “the old way.”  Didn’t work then and doesn’t work now….  I will not sell a dog if I even get a hint the potential buyers doesn’t understand the problem with this kind of negative reinforcement. Using ample amounts of supervision and positive reinforcement is the easy way.  Yorkies can be hard to potty train, Every potential Yorkie owner needs to know that.   NEVER, NEVER believe “15 week old puppies trained to paper or puppy pads”  That is absolutely impossible… It may take several months for a small breed puppy to be completely trained as their bladder is the size of a small lima bean.  Almost 100% of the time, breeders who say puppies are paper broken by 15 weeks or using a pet door are grossly over exaggerating and setting you up for unreal expectations……. I’ve been working with these dogs for many years…. I actively train my puppies every day, even using biosensor training from the first few days of life.  I have NEVER had a puppy trained by 15 weeks! 

Starting Off On the Right Track

The first course of action in housetraining is to promote the desired behavior. You need to:

• Designate an appropriate elimination area outdoors (same place every time)
• Frequently guide your dog there to do his business and give him your command (time to potty, etc)
• Heartily praise him when he goes

By occasionally giving a food reward immediately after your dog finishes, you can encourage him to eliminate in the desired area. The odor left from previous visits to that area will quickly mark it as the place for the pup to do his business.

Timing Is Important!

A 15-week old puppy should be taken outdoors every one to three hours. Older puppies can generally wait longer between outings. Most puppies should be taken out:

• After waking in the morning
• After naps
• After meals
• After playing or training
• After being left alone
• Immediately before being put to bed
• At least one time during the night

Eliminating On Command

To avoid spending a lot of time waiting for your puppy to get the job done, you may want to teach him to eliminate on command. Each time he is in the act of eliminating, simply repeat a unique command, such as "hurry up" or "potty", in an upbeat tone of voice. After a few weeks of training, you will notice that when you say the command your puppy will begin pre-elimination sniffing, circling, and then eliminate shortly after you give the command. Be sure to praise him for his accomplishments.  If waiting out there is not possible, purchase a small exer pen and place it in one spot in your yard or where ever you want him to go.  He’ll get the idea quickly. 

Feeding Schedules

Most puppies will eliminate within an hour after eating. Once you take control of your Yorkie’s feeding schedule, you will have some control over when he needs to eliminate.

• Schedule your Yorkie’s meal times so that you will be available to let him out after eating.
• Avoid giving your puppy a large meal just prior to confining him or he may have to eliminate when you are not around to take him out. Schedule feeding two to three times daily on a consistent schedule.
• Have food available for only 30 to 40 minutes, then remove it. (this is recommended, but may not be possible depending on your daily schedule.  Puppies cannot go without food from morning until you come in from work.  Please schedule accordingly.
• The last feeding of the day should be completed several hours before he is confined for the night. By controlling the feeding schedule, exercise sessions, confinement periods, and trips outdoors to the elimination area, your puppy will quickly develop a reliable schedule for eliminating.

Expect Some Mistakes

Left on his own, the untrained puppy is very likely to make a mistake. Close supervision is a very important part of training. Do not consider your puppy housetrained until he has gone at least four consecutive weeks without eliminating in the house. For older dogs, this period should be even longer. Until then:

• Your puppy should constantly be within eyesight
• Baby gates can be helpful to control movement throughout the house and to aid supervision
• Keep them in the crate when unsupervised.

When you are away from home, sleeping, or if you are just too busy to closely monitor your pet's activities (which are all ok, so don’t feel guilty), confine him to a small, safe area in the home.

Nervous Wetting

If your Yorkie squats and urinates when he greets you, he may have a problem called submissive urination. Dogs and puppies that urinate during greetings are very sensitive and should never be scolded when they do this, since punishment inevitably makes the problem worse.

Most young puppies will grow out of this behavior if you are calm, quiet, and avoid reaching toward the head during greetings. Another helpful approach is to calmly ask your dog to sit for a very tasty treat each time someone greets him.

Direct Him Away from Problem Areas

Urine and fecal odor should be thoroughly removed to keep your dog from returning to areas of the home where he made a mess.

• Be sure to use a good commercial product like Nature’s miracle available at pet’s mart or online to control doggy odors and to discourage “those favorite spots” they tend to find under your bed. Follow the manufacturer's recommendations for usage.
• If a carpeted area has been soaked with urine, be sure to saturate it with the clean up product and not merely spray the surface.
• Rooms in the home where your dog has had frequent mistakes should be closed off for several months. He should only be allowed to enter when accompanied by a family member.

Don't Make Things Worse

It is a rare dog or puppy that can be housetrained without making an occasional mess, so you need to be ready to handle the inevitable problems.

• Do not rely on harsh punishment to correct mistakes. This approach usually does not work, and may actually delay training.
• An appropriate correction consists of simply providing a moderate, startling distraction. You should only do this when you see your dog in the act of eliminating in the wrong place.
• A sharp noise, such as a loud "No" or a quick stomp on the floor, is all that is usually needed to stop the behavior. Just do not be too loud or your pet may learn to avoid eliminating in front of you, even outdoors.

Practice Patience

Do not continue to scold or correct your dog after he has stopped soiling. When he stops, quickly take him outdoors so that he will finish in the appropriate area and be praised.
Never rub your dog's nose in a mess. I’m saying this again incase you missed the first time…There is absolutely no way this will help training, and may actually make him afraid of you.  This is one of the most important parts of our questioning process for new buyers…. We don’t always come out and ask straight away, but we do get a read sense of buyers throughout the process…. Ill treatment happens the very most with regard to accidents…. If you can’t handle them, puppies and kids are not for you….. I’m not trying to be astute with this comment; however, I really have a problem with people blaming their pets or kids for poor potty training… it is all about your routine and consistency…..   

Success!

The basic principles of housetraining are pretty simple, but a fair amount of patience is required. The most challenging part is always keeping an eye on your active dog or puppy. If you maintain control, take your dog outdoors frequently, and consistently praise the desirable behavior, soon you should have a house trained Yorkies.

Crate Training: Essential for Potty Training

Training a puppy to be comfortable in a crate is a popular way to provide safe confinement during housetraining. The majority of puppies will rapidly accept crate confinement when you make the introduction fun. Since it is important to associate favorable things with the area where your puppy is confined, it is a good idea to play with him there, or simply spend some time reading or watching television nearby as he relaxes with a favorite chew toy. If he is only in the area when you leave, it becomes a social isolation area that he eventually may resist entering.  Our dogs love their crates.  When the kids are getting on their nerves, they head straight to their crate to relax.  We rarely have to close a crate door for confinement.

A good time to start crate training is at dinner time. Feed your puppy his dinner, one piece at a time, by tossing pieces of kibble into the crate for him to chase and eat. This way, you can make a game out of training.

When you pick up his toys, store them in the crate so he will enter on his own to play. You may even want to occasionally hide a treat in the crate as a nice surprise.  Our crates are never associated with “punishment.”  Without exception, our dogs and puppies can be sent to their crates with the door remaining open when told to “go to your room.”  They know immediately that the behavior exhibited is inappropriate and must have a “time out” period.  After a few minutes, we call them out and give them positive reinforcement.  Sometimes they “peek” out to see if they are still in trouble.

You should not use the crate for periods that exceed the length of time the pet can actually control the urge to urinate or defecate. If you are gone for long periods each day, you will need to provide a larger confinement area. You may want to consider using an exercise pen or small room.   We use exercise pens from www.digitpet.com.  We use the 36” black with walk through gate.  Makes cleaning easy…. 

Provide an area large enough so that if your puppy has to eliminate when you are gone, he can do it in a space that is separate from his sleeping area. A 15- to 30-square foot area is adequate for most puppies. If he chooses a specific place to eliminate, cover it with paper to make clean up easier.

 

Puppies: Teaching Good Manners

"A dog should be a pleasure to all and a nuisance to none," says well-known dog trainer Barbara Woodhouse. Teach your puppy the following commands in addition to basic obedience, and he will be much easier to live with. Practice these commands a few times a day in very short play-training sessions. 

I hear owners fuss sometimes because a family member or someone doesn’t want them to bring their dogs on visits.  Couple of things to never take personal:  1. some people just doesn’t like your pet; please do not push this issue.  2.  If your dogs pees on your mother-in-law’s sofa ever time you visit, there is only so much pee the sofa can soak up and she can take; again, don’t push this issue.  My point, always be considerate of other people.  There are no bad pets, just bad owners….. don’t be one!

Give:

To avoid unwanted aggression and guarding behavior later in life, train your dog to give you his prized possessions and even his food. The best way is to offer an exchange. Say "Give" and offer your dog a treat for his toy. The food offering will inspire most dogs to release the toy without struggle. Praise him heartily. Then give the toy back to him. Make it a fun game that he wins most of the time.  Again, I too fall short sometimes with training.  Rowdy (my 2lb’er) will fight my 6’ 2” husband over his food bowl.  Guess who’s fault that is… My husband’s.  It was cute when he was a puppy, not so cute now.

Get it / Leave it (Don't Touch):

Dogs who know the command "Leave it" will let things alone when asked. To make learning fun, play a game with your pup. Start the exercise with the dog sitting in front of you on a leash. With a handful of treats, offer him one at a time, saying, "Get it!" After two or three "Get its", offer him a treat, as usual, but this time say, "Leave it!" Of course he is going to go for it anyway because he doesn't know any better. When the puppy tries to grab the treat, give him a tiny bop on the nose with the same hand that offered him the treat, and repeat, "Leave it". As soon as the dog leaves the treat alone, praise him, saying, "Good Leave it!", then say, "OK. Get it!" and give it to him. Repeat the sequence four or five times in a row, saying "Get it" much more often than you say "Leave it." The puppy will think this is great fun and will probably catch on very quickly, learning to leave the treat alone when you say "Leave it".

Don't Pull:

To prevent physical damage to the dog, avoid excessive jerking on a Yorkie’s neck until he is at least four months old.   Also, Collapsing Tracheas can be a real issue, so proper leash training is very important.  Meanwhile, use a retractable leash, such as a Flexi-Leash(TM), so the pup can have some freedom, but meets resistance when he pulls. If he lunges, simply turn around and walk the other way.

Many trainers are now using Halti(TM) Head Collars to train puppies not to pull. The Halti(TM) fits around the dog's head and attaches to the leash. With the Halti(TM), the owner diverts the dog's head gently to the side if the dog tries to pull forward. Dogs don't like to lunge in a direction they cannot see. The experience is unpleasant for the dog, but humane, involving no pain.

Off:

No matter what they say, most people do not like it when a dog jumps all over them. Jumping up can even be dangerous when a dog jumps on a small child. The simplest and safest way to teach a puppy not to jump up is to back up when you see the pup coming and say "Off!" Reward and praise the puppy once all its feet are on the ground. You can also tell the dog to "Sit" so he learns something positive to do when greeting strangers. When the puppy is older, more severe measures can be used if necessary.

One warning: If you allow your dog to jump all over you, he may have trouble understanding why you don't allow him to jump all over everyone else. Try to be consistent!

In Your Kennel:

A dog's kennel should be his safe place, his den, his refuge. Your dog can learn to go willingly into his kennel on command. Tantalize your puppy with a treat or toy, then put it into the kennel and say "Kennel" or "Go to bed", or "In your Kennel" (choose one and be consistent). The dog will probably go inside. At first, don't close the door. Just praise the dog for going in. When he's used to going in, start closing the door, at first just for a few seconds. Give the puppy a little treat through the bars when he's inside with the door closed. Extend the time he spends inside the kennel gradually. Never let him out when he's crying as that only rewards crying. When you let the puppy out, don't make a big deal out of it. You don't want coming out to seem better than going in!

Speak / Quiet:

When a person yells at his dog for barking, the dog thinks the human is barking too, joining the fun. "Quiet" is a difficult concept for dogs. The most successful strategy we've found is to train the dog to bark on command before training the dog what "Quiet" means.  I rarely even have to say quiet in a loud voice.  I generally never have to raise my voice. 

Show the dog a treat, make a hand signal and say "Speak". You may have to bark a bit at your dog before he gets the idea, but eventually he will probably give you a bark or two. Praise and reward immediately and with great fervor. Try again until your puppy understands this entertaining game.

Once the dog knows how to bark on command, get him barking and then suddenly say "Quiet" and place your fingers to your lips. This strange action will probably stun your dog into silence. Reward and praise excitedly! Repeat several times a day for a few weeks until your dog knows it dependably. Later, when you yell "Quiet", the dog will know what you are talking about.

Summary:

A dog with good manners is a pleasure to live with and to be around. Training your dog to behave in a socially acceptable way is fun. Your family and guests will thank you, and you will be proud of your pet. Wouldn't it be nice to have a dog that stops barking when you ask him to, who doesn't jump up on people, who doesn't pull you down the street and who will give you even his most prized possessions without a grumble? It's all up to you...

 

Chewing: Puppies and Dogs

Tips for Dealing with Puppy and Adult Dogs That Chew

CHEWING: PUPPIES AND DOGS
Chewing is a very normal behavior for puppies and dogs. They use their mouths for grasping food, gaining information about the environment, relieving boredom, and reducing tension.

Chewing appears to be great fun. However, chewing could become a major problem when valued objects are damaged.

WHY DO DOGS CHEW?

When you couple strong jaws with the curiosity and high energy of an exploring puppy, the result is an incredible chewing machine! The speed at which puppies can wreak havoc in a house, and the extent of damage they can do, can really take you by surprise. There are a variety of reasons why a puppy might chew.

SOME REASONS WHY DOGS AND PUPPIES CHEW

• Noises behind a wall, such as a high pitched heater motor or the scurrying footsteps of a mouse, might trigger investigative chewing.
• A delay in feeding time may send a hungry dog off chewing into cabinets as he searches for food.
• Food spilled on a piece of furniture can cause a puppy to tear into it with his teeth in hopes of finding something tasty to eat.

Dogs make good pets because they have a very social nature and plenty of energy to share in activities with us. In return, we need to provide enough exercise, mental stimulation, and social interaction to avoid destructive behavior.

UNDERSTANDING YOUR YORKIE’S WORLD

Puppies usually pass time or break the boredom by using their mouths, which may result in destructive behavior. Household destruction occurs because puppies are simply entertaining themselves.

Sometimes we unwittingly contribute to a puppy's problem by improper training. Puppies are unable to determine the difference between old shoes and new shoes, or between stuffed toys and the corner of a stuffed couch.

Likewise, tug-of-war games can set the puppy up to fail. A puppy or dog entertained by tearing a towel is tempted to attack curtains fluttering in a breeze.

WHAT ABOUT A SECOND PET?

It is usually not the best course of action to get a second pet to help correct a chewing problem. In some cases, a second pet may serve to distract the destructive pet away from chewing. But it is just as likely that the problems could double, especially if the second pet is another puppy.

A LITTLE GUIDANCE

The first step in correcting a chewing problem is to guide your Yorkie’s chewing toward acceptable chew toys.

• Choose a variety of good quality, safe products. When your puppy shows you what he likes, buy several more of the same type.
• Hollow rubber toys work well since biscuits can be wedged inside for your puppy to pry out. This gives him a job to do and helps keep his focus away from your possessions.
• Another way of keeping your puppy focused on putting his mouth on the toys is to teach him to play fetch.
• Never take proper chewing for granted. Take an active roll in rewarding desirable chewing with lots of encouragement and praise.
• Give your pet plenty of praise every time he chews on his toys. Occasionally give a small reward to strongly reinforce the behavior.

PROTECTING YOUR POSSESSIONS!

Until you can trust your puppy, he must be under constant supervision or confined to a safe area. During times when he is with you, he might sneak off by himself to chew. Consider using a leash to keep him within eyesight. A crate, dog run, or safe room will keep him out of trouble when he cannot be watched.

As your puppy is allowed more freedom, he can be taught to avoid forbidden objects if you make them taste bad. Choose an effective, commercial, bitter- or hot-tasting spray to safeguard objects.  Again, not pepper spay, bottled alcohol, ect.  Something commercially manufactured or regular water in a spray bottle.  If he has the habit of chewing specific items, such as clothing, make sure that all clothing is out of reach except one or two items that are sprayed with a bad-tasting spray.

Every day, move the items to new positions around the house. In four or five days change the type of item. This teaches the dog to leave your clothing alone because he associates them with a bad taste. Rowdy will find every accessible sock in the house and pile them at the back door when we leave if he is not secured.  Again, good example of spoiling you dogs.  Everyone thinks it is cute except me since I have to pick them up, find the matches, etc…

"Booby traps" are successful since they punish your puppy during the act and do not require your presence. A stack of empty beverage cans set up to fall over when something moves can be effective in safeguarding certain objects. Motion-activated alarms are often effective in teaching a puppy to stay off furniture or out of plants.

WHAT NOT TO DO

• Corrections and reprimands are rarely effective by themselves.
• Under no circumstances should your puppy be spanked, slapped, kicked, or physically punished in any way. There is a risk he will become hand shy or a fear-biter. Instead, offer a verbal reprimand followed by encouragement to chew on a proper chew toy.
• To be most effective, the reprimand must be given during or immediately after the misbehavior, and every time it occurs.
• Reprimands can backfire by either teaching the dog to be sneaky about chewing, or by teaching him not to chew anything, even toys, in your presence.

This information was provided by Wayne Hunthausen, DVM, Director of Animal Behavior Consultations in the

Kansas City

metropolitan area.

Puppies: Basic Obedience

A puppy can learn a great deal, even as early as 7 weeks of age, if learning is fun and presented in the form of gentle play. Motivational methods work best for the tender young puppy soul. Reward desired behaviors by offering toys, food and praise so the puppy wants to obey. Whenever possible, try to arrange the situation so he can't make a mistake. Never use physical punishment on a young puppy as you may damage him both mentally and physically.

Most puppies, like young children, enjoy learning, but have short attention spans. The following exercises can be done several times a day. They take just a few minutes, but will make a tremendous difference in your Yorkie’s attitude. To establish a positive rapport with your puppy and prevent many future problems, start training a few days after your puppy settles in.

We can only offer very brief explanations here, and trainers have many variations on these concepts. If you run into problems, consult a professional trainer or give us a call. A puppy can start more formal obedience training at about four to six months of age.

Sit:

Move a toy or piece of food (the motivator) from a position in front of the puppy to a point up over his head and say "Sit". The pup will probably raise his head to follow the motivator and in the process, lower his rear end to the floor. You may gently help the pup at first by tucking his bottom under with your free hand. When he sits, praise the pup exuberantly and give him the toy or treat as a reward.

Down:

Show the puppy a tantalizing piece of food or a toy to get his attention. Say "Down" and slowly lower the toy to the floor. If needed, help him down with very slight pressure on his shoulders. (Don't put pressure on his back, or you can hurt him.) Give him the toy when he lies down, even if just for a second. Reward profusely. Later you can extend the length of time he must stay down before you give him the toy.

Stand:

Starting with the puppy in the Down position, say "Stand" and raise a treat or toy forward and upward in front of the puppy. Gently help position him with your other hand if needed. Have him hold the stand position for a second or two, then release, reward and praise him exuberantly.

Wait:

Have the puppy sit. Say "Wait" and back away from the puppy, one or two steps. Praise the puppy for staying. After just a second or two, reward, praise, and release. Always reward the puppy when he's still waiting, not after he gets up, so he associates the reward with waiting and not the release. If the puppy gets up too soon, simply repeat the exercise. Gradually increase the time he waits.

Strut (Heel):

Get your Yorkie’s attention with a delectable treat at about his head level on your left-hand side. Say "Strut" or "Heel" or "Let's go" (choose one and be consistent) and walk briskly forward. Let the puppy munch a bit as you walk. Go only a few steps at first, then extend the range. Release the pup and praise him. As the puppy progresses, lift the food a little higher, but do not reward the pup for jumping.

Come:

This game takes two people, and is a great way to get your puppy excited about coming to you. Person 1 holds the puppy back while Person 2 tantalizes him by waving a treat or toy in his face, just out of reach. Then Person 2 runs away, calling "Rover, Come!" in an excited tone of voice. Person 1 releases the pup, who comes running wildly after Person 2! Person 2 rewards the dog with lots of praise and gives Rover the toy or treat she was waving.

When teaching a young pup to come to you, call him several times throughout the day around the house and yard, even if you don't want him to come for any particular reason. Each time he comes, praise and reward him. (You can keep some of his regular dry dog kibble in your pocket and give him one whenever he comes if you don't want to overload him with fancy fattening treats.) The puppy will think coming to you is terrific!

If you don't have an assistant handy, try this game. Have the puppy on a loose long line or flexi-lead. Show him a treat or toy. Call his name and then say "Come!" in an energized tone of voice. If he comes to you, reward with a toy or a bit of food and excited praise. If he doesn't come right away, tug gently on the leash and move backwards, away from the puppy. If you run towards him, he may think you are playing a chase game and run away from you!

As your puppy gets a little older and more independent, the long line or flexi-lead will guarantee that he will always come when you call. This is especially useful outside or at parks where he may find many new and interesting distractions. Always reward him for coming. Never scold or punish the dog when he comes to you. (If you must punish the dog for some bad behavior, just go get him.) Don't use the "Come" command outdoors unless your puppy is on a leash, so you can be sure he will obey. Soon he will realize that he must come every time you call and that coming is fun!

Conclusion:

Training your puppy is enjoyable and worthwhile. You will develop a rewarding bond with your puppy and an activity you can do together even after the dog is grown. An untrained dog can be a pest, a problem and a even a danger. A well-trained dog is a good friend and an asset to his family and community.

Taking Care of Your Yorkie’s Health

Finding a Veterinarian

Just like you, your new puppy needs high-quality health care on a regular basis.  If you are local, we generally suggest you use our vet since he is familiar with your specific puppy.  If you are not, ask a number of friends and your local humane society to recommend a veterinarian, then choose one with these factors in mind:

• Education and experience. Find out how long the veterinarian has been practicing and if he or she is a graduate of a well-regarded veterinary college.
• Specialty. In urban areas, it may be possible to find veterinarians who deal exclusively with the special problems of dogs and cats.
• Location. This factor should not override the areas of education, experience and specialty, but should nevertheless be taken into consideration. A drive across town during a medical emergency can be frustrating and delay needed treatment.

Schedule a visit and interview

Once you've narrowed down your choices, visit the veterinarian's office. Inspect the facility and talk to the veterinarian about your new puppy. If you like what you see and hear, arrange a time to bring your puppy in for an initial examination. We recommend a visit to the veterinarian within the first three days after you bring your puppy home to make sure he's in good health. The veterinarian may want to check the following things:

• Stool. A fecal exam will reveal the presence of internal parasites.
• Body. A thorough physical exam includes inspecting your dog's coat and feeling his body for abnormalities, as well as checking the eyes, ears, mouth and heart and examining the anus for signs of intestinal parasites.

Once an exam is completed, your veterinarian can schedule immunizations and vaccinations and advise you on the importance of spaying and neutering.

Spaying and Neutering

Spaying or neutering your new puppy is the right thing to do if you're not planning on breeding. For most pet owners, the expense, time and expertise involved in breeding dogs responsibly is beyond their reach. Here are some advantages to having your puppy spayed or neutered:

• For females, there is no mess to deal with during their 21-day heat cycles, which occur every six months—the heat cycle begins in females sometime after six months of age.
• Spaying a female before her first heat cycle will reduce the chance of mammary tumors or uterine diseases.
• Neutered males tend to be less aggressive than unneutered males.
• With a neutered male, the urge to mark territory may lessen.
• A neutered male is less likely to want to roam in search of potential mates.

When to spay or neuter

Dogs should be spayed or neutered by the time they are six months old. Both operations are performed under anesthesia and may require an overnight stay at the veterinarian's office. Recovery time is quick, with most dogs resuming normal activity in a few days. Spaying (for females) consists of an ovario-hysterectomy. Neutering involves the removal of the testicles.

When you bring your puppy to the veterinarian's office for his first thorough examination, have the doctor explain the operation in detail and set up a time to have the procedure done.

 

**This is a combination of our unique experiences with training and working with dogs over a lifetime as well as basic information provided by Eukanuba, Royal Canine, and Diamond Pet foods.  Please do not reproduce this without express written permission. 

 

Southeast Texas Yorkies         All rights reserved          Copyright 2008